For the most part, I have been doing this with a power sander and with a sanding block, along with occasional help from a hand plane. I also bought a “multi-tool” oscillating saw to trim the planking up forward, where accurate fitting along the mid-width of the chine is required.
A large portion of this work is done. However, as I look down the length of the chine to check for “fairness” of line, I’m seeing some new trouble spots. It appears I’ve got a couple of low spots in the chine, particularly on the port side... the dreaded “humps and hollows” mentioned in Boatbuilding With Plywood.
Once I get some remaining areas fully sanded, I’ll be able to assess the problem more accurately. However, it’s already looking like I will have to add some more strips of wood to fill these areas. That means more fairing. (Yaaay!) Oh well, it will be for the best if so.
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| The dreaded "humps and hollows" are plainly visible along the port chine. |
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| To a lesser degree, the same issues are visible along the starboard chine. |
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| Fairing progress at the transom. I still need to sand away those Raptor staples. |
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| Still need to encapsulate the limbers before planking the bottom of the boat. |
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| Also need to encapsulate the sole supports before planking the bottom. |
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| Test-run of the transition joint. I'll probably move this forward an inch or so. |
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| Test-run of the transition joint. I'll probably move this forward an inch or so. |
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| Here is the cut I made along the forward curve of the chine, using an oscillating "multi-tool" saw. |
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| So far, I've been very happy with the Porter Cable multi-tool I bought. It is very easy to use. |
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