Monday, May 29, 2017

So, how does it row?

The Glen-L Utility is actually quite easy to row, and I'm definitely happy that I put the oarlocks on it. 

Now, a little caveat: Although it is fairly easy to row, it is not what you'd call a "rowboat". Rowboats tend to be proportionately narrower, with a rocker in the hull, and glide through the water smoothly and easily. This is a planing-hull boat designed for outboard power. It is first, and foremost, a power boat.

That being said, you can raise the motor, put the oars out, and row with relative ease. You won't be the fastest rower on the water. Someone in a canoe will be able to run circles around you. And, if you have to row for a long distance, you're in for a workout.

But, if you like to motor your boat to your favorite little secluded cove on the lake, turn off the motor, and row around in the peace and stillness... this boat fits that role beautifully. In fact, I've done that very thing with my daughter aboard, and still dragging the outboard motor through the water, without it being much of a chore to row. On a large pond, or a small lake, you may not even need a motor at all.

Being a fairly wide boat, you'll need long oars. I bought 6-1/2' oars, for two reasons: That is the longest length that I can easily stow onboard, and that was the longest length available locally (at Bass Pro Shops.) They work pretty well. If you're expecting to row your Glen-L Utility frequently, you'd probably be happier with 7 or 8 foot oars.

Happy Memorial Day!

Monday, May 22, 2017

A simple remedy to the rowing issue

Simple things usually work best. That's what I believe, anyway.

So, when I was trying to decide how to remedy the problem of the oars hitting the side of the boat and getting knocked out of the oarlocks, I looked for the simplest possible solution.

The goal was to raise the oarlocks enough to give the oar adequate clearance over the sheer... without having to move the oarlock sockets and drill more holes in the sheer clamps.

This is what I came up with:

Half-inch spacers that I made from scrap mahogany. These raise the oarlocks about as high as possible, while still leaving enough of the shaft in the oarlock socket for the whole thing to function well.

It's not a perfect solution, as the oars do still rub against the side of the boat slightly — that is, if you're rowing from the rear thwart. From the forward thwart, (which is a better rowing position, anyway) the oars clear the side of the boat just fine. For as little as I expect to be rowing this boat, I believe this arrangement will work just fine.