Saturday, February 11, 2017

The Tedious Tale of Zip Frame #2 — part four

After installing the shims, it was time to shape the floor member of Frame #2 to its proper dimensions. 

This took a while. I used a Stanley Surform plane and a sanding block, working a little at a time. I frequently checked my progress against the construction drawings. I also used a straight edge to ensure that the surface was straight.

Shaping the floor beam

Once that was done, I drew out the gussets on scrap pieces of 1/4" Meranti plywood.

Drawing out the gussets

Once the gussets were cut and sanded, it did not take long to have the frame 3/4 assembled. I still need to epoxy all these parts together. Then, as with Frame #4, this frame will have to wait until I buy another mahogany board or two for the deck beam.

Lap joint with single gusset, just like Frame #4

Chine notch cut with a saw. (Note that I may need to add a shim to the end of the floor beam.)

The Slow Saga of Zip Frame #4 — part six

I had so much fun countersinking those 1-3/4" screws, I decided to add two more.

This gave the side members of Frame #4 a nice diagonal pattern where it is screwed all the way through the lap joint.

I learned my lesson from the port lap joint, so on the starboard joint I was very vigilant to make sure all surface-to-surface contacts were solid.

Starboard lap joint

Epoxy cured, and clamps removed

I also bought myself a 3/8" plug cutter, to try my hand at installing bungs in those countersunk holes.

Bungs installed

The bungs were easy enough to install. For my first attempt at trimming them, I used a chisel to shear them off. This didn't go so well. The bungs broke, as much as they were "sheared." This left a slight indentation in the bungs that was below the surface of the frame. They kind of resembled screw heads.

First attempt at trimming bungs

For the other side, I used a saw. This worked MUCH better. The saw trims the bungs quickly, and it does not take long to sand them flush with the rest of the wood.

Second attempt. Better.

For the time being, that's about all I can do on Frame #4 until I buy more mahogany to build the deck beam / dash board.

Bolting the motor to the Utility

Last New Year's Eve, I decided it would be a great idea to celebrate the day by drilling holes in a perfectly good transom. 

The purpose, of course, was to prepare for bolting the Nissan outboard motor to the boat. 

After the holes were drilled, I coated the inside surface with 2 layers of epoxy, using a Q-Tip. When I tested the bolts for fit, it was so snug with the epoxy that I decided not to bother with any additional sealant.

First bolt is through, on the starboard side.

Second bolt is through, on the port side. I used 3" stainless steel bolts, washers and lock nuts.