|That's just too much standing water.|
With my patron saint, Clark Griswold, looking over me... I took my new 1-inch hole saw, and things went very, very wrong.
|"Dive! Dive! Dive!" No, I'm not building a replica U-boat. Ugh. What a mess!|
Let's back up a little.
The obvious place to start was a cutout I'd made on what was originally intended as a sole support. I had left this gap for the very purpose of adding a drain tube if I ever chose to. So, I placed the flared end of my Moeller brass drain tube in position, and marked the area to be drilled.
|Here, you can see the brass drain tube, the 1" hole saw, and the space for the hole.|
|Marking the location for the hole.|
|The initial cut.|
The hole got deeper, and deeper, and I kept waiting for the drill bit to exit the other side of the transom. Then, I began to think: "What if this doesn't come out where I want it to?"
Amazed at my own wisdom, I stopped cutting, took the saw part off of the drill bit, and drilled all the way through — just to make sure it came out in the right spot. Guess what?
|The first exit wound.|
There was NO WAY this was going to work. So, I relocated the hole saw where the hole should be, and began drilling inward from the outside.
|Relocated pilot hole.|
|The center of the NEW hole, relative to the position of the first one.|
|Here's the drain tube placed into the NEW hole. Not pretty... but workable.|
|Bilge pump out of the way, and initial vertical cut made.|
|Cautiously cutting the notch with my Porter Cable multi tool.|
I measured and marked the spot for the pilot hole, giving myself a little added room to clear the transom knee on the inside of the hull. This time, the pilot hole was in the perfect location.
What could possibly go wrong?
Although the hole was in a technically functional position, there was absolutely zero clearance for the flared end of the drain tube.
— Now, in retrospect, I could've made this work. How? By simply not flaring the inner end of the drain tube. I could've made the seal with copious amounts of thickened epoxy. Sure, it wouldn't match the look of the port-side hole, but this side is hidden behind the bilge pump, so it wouldn't really matter. I wish this had occurred to me at the time. But, to quote the classic Asia song... "It was the heat of the moment." —
"No problem," I thought. "I'll simply widen the hole from the inside outward, and fill in the gap as needed later."
But there was a problem. The width of my drill would let me get the hole saw nowhere near the center of the original hole to make an "adjustment". So, I placed it as close as I could, and started drilling. What I wound up with was:
One elongated mess of a hole on the inside...
...and almost two completely separate holes on the outside.
Naturally, this would have to be fixed before I could proceed with my "adjustment."
I've actually seen other boatbuilders fix problems far worse than this one. So, I knew I could fix this. But how?
For starters, I took a slightly larger hole saw (1-1/4" diameter), and cut a plug out of some 2" thick mahogany scrap.
Then I packed the pilot hole with some heavily-thickened epoxy. I liberally coated the inner diameter of my transom mess with the same mixture, as well as the outside of the plug.
Then I tapped it into place with a hammer.
|Don't say it. I know what it looks like.|
Once all that mess cures up, good & solid, I'll find a way to finish "adjusting" the hole. The boat's name is Perseverance, after all. I don't give up.