The second layer of the starboard chine was done in 3 sections. Let's call them "aft, mid, and fwd." Here, the aft section is clamped into position as the epoxy cures.
Aft section expoxied into place, clamps removed.
Aft section overhanging the transom. (This end piece is actually a very small shim.)
Aft piece trimmed at the transom.
This photo shows both the mid piece (right) and fwd piece (left) clamped into position. The scarf joint that will join the two is located between Frame #4 and Frame #5-1/2.
My intention was to scarf-join the pieces in-place, (rather than join them first & then attach them.)
This photo shows the mid section, clamped into place where it will overlap the scarf joint of the first chine layer.
This photo shows the mid section clamped into place while the epoxy cures.
As before, I removed some of the clamps holding down the fwd piece to keep from accidentally gluing it down.
Butt joint between the mid section (left) and aft section (right), after a little preliminary fairing.
Mid section attached, with most of the clamps removed.
This photo shows the fwd section, clamped into position while the epoxy cures.
Mid section, where it passes through Frame # 5-1/2.
Scarf joint between the fwd section (left) and mid section (right).
Here's the scarf joint after a little preliminary fairing & sanding.
The laminated chine, where it passes through Frame #4. I used a small piece of scrap as a shim to fill a small gap between the chine and the frame notch.
And, finally — the full length of the laminated chine.
Looking real good Mike. Laminating the chine is definitely the way to go. It will be far stronger and far less likely to break when being wrapped around the curves. The hardest part for me was making that deep cut in the forward most frame. I really hesitated on doing that for the longest time.
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